The Sparkling Legacy of Coro and Mylu Designs
December 1, 2024The Emergence of Renoir of California: A Legacy in Copper Jewelry*
During the mid-20th century, copper jewelry experienced a surge in popularity, with Renoir of California emerging as a key player in this artistic movement. Established in Los Angeles, the company was founded by Jerry Felsenstein, Nat Zausner, and Curtis Freiler, bringing innovative copper jewelry designs to the American market.
Renoir copper jewelry.
Origins and Founding of Renoir of California
The origins of Renoir trace back to World War II, when Jerry Felsenstein, then serving as a lieutenant in the U.S. Army Air Forces stationed in London, began experimenting with jewelry-making as a leisure activity. His friend and future business partner, Nat Zausner, supplied him with copper scraps from the United States, which Felsenstein transformed into unique jewelry pieces. Upon completing these designs, he would send them back to Zausner for review.
After Felsenstein’s return from military service, he relocated to California, where he, Zausner, and Curtis Freiler formally established Renoir of California. The company quickly gained recognition for its distinctive hand-crafted copper jewelry, which was introduced to the market in the mid-1940s.
Innovative Design and Production Techniques
Renoir earrings
Renoir’s copper jewelry was distinguished by its special manufacturing process, which included a protective coating to prevent oxidation and discoloration. This feature ensured the durability of the jewelry while maintaining its vibrant, polished appearance. Additionally, the underside of the company’s signature wide bracelets was electroplated to provide extra comfort and protection for the wearer.
The company’s collection featured an array of bracelets, earrings, and brooches, many of which were designed as coordinated sets. Among the most notable designs was the “Ballet” set, which included a wide bracelet with a mask motif, complemented by a matching brooch and square earrings. Another popular design, “Whirlpool,” featured a bold, maze-like pattern showcased in a large brooch and accompanying earrings, paired with an uneven-edged bracelet.
Renoir also incorporated alternative materials into their designs, such as aluminum beads polished to resemble pearls, which were arranged in a unique “lazy L” configuration in the “Drum” ensemble. Other pieces in the collection included the minimalist, two-inch-wide copper slave bracelet, as well as the creatively themed “Palette” set, which featured a pin and earrings adorned with miniature paintbrushes inserted through a tiny painter’s palette.
Market Position and Expansion Plans
Copper jewelry from Renoir was particularly recommended for pairing with garments in shades of green, red, and black, the latter of which enhanced the jewelry’s darkened backing. By 1946, the company had gained sufficient traction to consider expansion, with plans to relocate to a larger facility and increase its workforce to approximately ten employees. Curtis Freiler took on the role of production manager, overseeing the manufacturing process.
At the time, Renoir’s wholesale pricing structure reflected the craftsmanship involved in its pieces. Bracelets were available at wholesale prices ranging from $18 to $45 per dozen, brooches from $27 to $33 per dozen, and earrings from $24 to $30 per dozen.
Renoir earrings
Conclusion
Renoir of California played a significant role in defining mid-century American costume jewelry, particularly in the realm of copper craftsmanship. Through its innovative design processes and artistic approach, the company helped elevate copper jewelry from a utilitarian metal to a celebrated fashion statement. The firm’s early years laid the foundation for its later success, establishing a legacy that continues to captivate collectors and jewelry enthusiasts today.*
This article is based on the details of the company’s introduction according to the trade magazine Women’s Wear Daily. Different accountings have been reported.
Renoir earring marks
